Adenium obesum, also known as Sabi Star, Kudu or Desert rose. It is native to tropical and subtropical eastern and southern Africa and Arabia. It is an evergreen succulent shrub, growing to 1-3 m in height, with pachycaul stems and a stout, swollen basal caudex. The leaves are spirally arranged, clustered toward the tips of the shoots, simple entire, leathery in texture, 5-15 cm long and 1-8 cm broad. The flowers are tubular, 2-5 cm long, with the outer portion 4-6 cm diameter with five petals, resembling those of other related genera such as Plumeria and Nerium. The flowers tend to red and pink, often with a whitish blush outward of the throat.
Several regional subspecies occur:
Adenium obesum subsp. boehmianum. Namibia, Angola.
Adenium obesum subsp. obesum. Arabia.
Adenium obesum subsp. oleifolium. South Africa, Botswana.
Adenium obesum subsp. socotranum. Socotra.
Adenium obesum subsp. somalense. Eastern Africa.
Adenium obesum subsp. swazicum. Eastern South Africa
you can read full in http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Adenium
1. Adenium Obesum Redseeds has bright colour ; white and pink with numbers of order, we will discount you with a great prices.
2. Arabicum Yak Saudi has very wide caudex, it is in Giant species, lot of flowers, bright pink colour. If you keep looking after them, they can be grown much more bigger and they are so popular for the collectors
3. Somalenes give fascinating pink. It always gets interested for gardening, decorations. It has outstanding charactors; vertically straight up stems then branches at the top like Bon-Sei. It flowers through everywhere around the tree and the leaves are long, narrow as the symbol of this species. It’s the popular one of the Kind as well.
4. Arabicum Ra Shi nee pan dok is the same species as Yak Saudi but Ra Shi nee would give more flowers than Yak Saudi. When it flowers, blooming spread through everywhere around the tree. The collectors are always interested in this one as well. The differences that you can notice is underneath the Ra Chi Nee ’s leaves doesn’t have soft, gently hair like the Yak Saudi ones.
5. Socotranum is the most biggest Adeniums and the most popular one for the collectors. Because of the outstanding shapes, varying stems and stunning colour so they mostly get them to graw as Bon-Sai ones.
Adenium or desert rose or Lucky Flowers or Fook Hui Hwa can grow well in these conditions :
1. adenium need 5-7 hours sunlight
2. adenium can live in 5-52 degree celcius
3. watering 2-3 days
Using either annealed copper or aluminum wire to modify and hold the shape of a tree allows the bonsaist to realize the plastic aspect of his art. Cutting and carving constitute the subtractive aspect, while only nature can perform additive operations on bonsai. Other techniques for shaping trees may also be used either separately or in conjunction with wiring. These techniques include tying branches down with string, hanging weights on branches, and the use of various levers or jacks. Wiring provides a general technique for achieving effective branch placement and so is one of the most commonly used techniques..
Tips on Viewing: When viewing a bonsai display, you will notice three elements: the tree, an accent item (usually a stone or plant) and the stand (called a "dai"). These three items should harmonize to form a triangle, with the highest point being the top of the tree. The accent item will be placed to the left or the right of the tree and will form the furthest point of the triangle. Bonsai are never displayed sitting directly on the display surface.
The tree itself will present either a single triangle or set of triangle shaped features. The highest point of the triangle is, in most cases, the top of the tree (called the "apex"). The right and left points of the triangle are formed by the first and second branches (the two branches closest to the ground). Most of the basic styles follow this general rule. When viewing the displays, see if you can find the triangles.
Other features to look for are good, strong, visible roots (nebari), a gentle movement and taper in the trunk (tachi-agari), a distinct apex, and well developed branches and foliage. The trunk should have a good taper, with good root formation visible at soil level. Branches should be larger at the bottom of the tree and decrease in size as they near the top. The distance between the branches should decrease as they near the top of the tree. There should be negative (open) areas between the branches to give the impression of a tree rather than a shrub. A bonsai may have areas of dead wood to give an impression of age. To fully appreciate bonsai, get down to the level of the tree and look up into it much as you would look at a tree in nature.
Labels: bonsai tips
7 simple guidelines allows Juniper bonsai to be grown without difficulty :
Junipers, as with most bonsai, like to dry out between waterings. Feel the soil every day. If there is a rock in the planting lift it up and feel under it, otherwise, just stick your finger about a half of an inch to an inch into the soil. If the soil feels dry, water your bonsai. Never let your bonsai go totally dry for extended periods!!! The best way to water your bonsai is to soak it in a sink or container of water up to the trunk for about 5 to 10 minutes. Then allow it to drain. If top watering your bonsai, water, wait a few minutes, and water again. Repeat this several times to insure that your bonsai has received a thorough watering. Eventually you will be able to determine a watering schedule that meets your climate conditions
Filtered or shaded sunlight is best for your Juniper bonsai. Allow your Juniper bonsai to get low intensity morning sunlight when possible and avoid the direct afternoon sunlight.
Fertilize your Juniper bonsai once every two weeks during the growing season, spring until fall. We recommend using an organic liquid fertilizer such as a fish emulsion or an organic seaweed fertilizer. Chemical fertilizers may be used but should be diluted to approximately one half strength so that valuable roots are not damaged. Organic pellets such as rice cakes may also be used along with regular fertilizers.
Humidity around your Juniper bonsai may be maintained by the use of a humidity tray or plate filled with stones and water. Your bonsai can be placed on top of the stones in the tray. The tray or plate will also offer protection from the draining water of your freshly watered bonsai. Misting once a day will also help…but remember, misting is not a replacement for watering.
Junipers should be repotted about every two years when young (less than five or six years old) and every three to five years thereafter. Junipers may be repotted throughout most of the year, although, the best times for repotting are in the spring and fall. After repotting, water thoroughly and keep the plant in a shady location for several weeks so that new roots may grow.
To maintain good health, Juniper bonsai should be kept in a cool (under 60 degrees F) during the winter months so that they can experience a dormancy or rest period. During this period your bonsai should be protected from drying winds and extreme cold conditions. This can be achieved by utilizing cold frames, window wells, enclosed unheated rooms, or mulch beds.
Moss is certainly not essential to growing bonsai, but when moss is added to a bonsai it both enhances its beauty and improves moisture retention within the bonsai pot. If your bonsai has moss growing in it you can help to keep it alive by misting it regularly. If the moss dies, you may replace it with some of your own moss from your backyard.
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addition website that you can apply online to buy bonsai
THE ADENIUM STORY
Adeniums have been, till recently, comparatively rare and high value succulents. In part this was because they are somewhat difficult and slow under cool conditions and in part due to the need for cross pollination to set seed. The rather complex floral structure means than hand pollination technique is not obvious.
Thus, in the Western countries, where multiple clones were available, slow growth and closed greenhouses meant little seed set while in tropical Asia, where seed set would have been possible, there was, for a long time there was only one clone- "Singapore"; it set no seed and was propagated by cuttings (I believe this clone is male sterile) with its primary use being in landscaping., there was, for a long time only one clone and so no seed set- the cultivar "Singapore" which was propagated by cuttings.
Adenium seed from the wild is usually of poor quality due to pests, poor harvest timing and inadequate processing. Something changed in the late 70's- a little seed became available in Asia; hand pollination techniques were described in several articles (though in that pre-internet age, I had a tough time getting copies even in the 80's).
In the 80's, several growers in India (Mr.Mukundan in Madras and I in Bombay) & Thailand (notably Mr. Vitoon Techacharoensukchera) were producing and selling Adenium seeds. Over the last two decade we probably sold several million seeds between us
(taken from http://www.tropicanursery.com/adenium/story.htm)
here the list of sites that you can order or buy adenium :
i'll add other link later